Post Your System Specs Thread

Cells only describe the inner workings of a battery. There are much more factors to determine battery life.

 

battery life is a calculation of power consumption and amps. right?

there is software in laptops and even on my old craptop it has a press button on the battery itself because it slides in the side, the button is like the old duracell battery gauge they used to build onto them in the 90's.

so i have two gauges. in pc and on battery. the only way to tell is with a new battery just check the manufacturer of the laptop and get the estimated life which is almost always in the specs, or simply use it till its almost out of charge and see how long it took.

old batteries are unreliable and itll vary a lot.

 

Some types of batteries' maximum charge declines over time, so reading the specs for an older laptop may be unreliable.

 

exactly. but reading the specs for any laptop, stock using a stock battery which is new or relativly new. will give you the info you want. and as i said, old batteries will always hold a charge for less time and i think, when they get bad they will hold a charge longer one time and shorter the next.

 

Woot!! nice rig dude!!

 

this is due to expensive purchase and not newegg issues?? they are supposed to be really good. i buy by price which is normally amazon.

 

Macbook Aluminum:

2 ghz intel core 2 duo
13.3 in widescreen
160 gb hard disk 320 GB Hitachi HD
2 gb DDR3 Ram
Mac OS X 10.5.6 Leopard Mac OS X 10.6 Snow Leopard
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
Airport Extreme 802.11abgn
Bluetooth

 

As of now, three of the aforementioned components have failed. They are...

The sound card.
The system drive.
One of the RAM sticks.

With advice from my peers (Loonylion), I decided not to link the hard drives in a RAID configuration. I am very happy with my purchase.

 

i noticed that some seagates have a rubber surround that is removable. i have not seen one that didnt burn out in a few years.

 

damn. they suck now.

i buy hitachi but have only gone as high as 80gig. do you recommend anyones 10,000rpm drives?

 

ah. is there really a difference that justifies the increased price?


i'll end the the derailment of the topic after this question has gotten a response.

 

Lets see how well I can do this from memory. I just bought a new laptop and built a new desktop within the last month and a half. I reseached everything to death, so I should be able to.

Laptop is an HP dv7t 1200
17" screen @ 1680x1050 resolution
2.4GHz P8600 Intel Core 2 Duo
4GB RAM
9600M GT 512MB Nividia graphics card
Seagate 500GB 7,200rpm hard drive - getting a second shortly for a 2 x 500GB internal =)
Wireless N/Bluetooth (card gets hotter than hell...)
Bluray drive
Can't think of anything else particularly worth mentioning there.

Desktop I custom built about a month ago

22" Samsung SyncMaster also 1680 x 1050. Came with my 3-D equipment. Its matte and picture quality kicks the butt of any glossy screen I have ever seen. Seriously, look up the specs on it.
EVGA 790i FTW mobo - REALLY nice mobo. I recommend it.
3.0GHz Q9650 Intel Core 2 Quad - Zalman cooler on there.
8GB OCZ RAM
2 BFG 9800GX2 graphics cards in SLI. More or less a quad sli as each graphics card is already in SLI with itself. =)
3 1TB 7,200rpm Western Digital Caviar Black Hard Drives with Kubuntu, XP, and Vista triboot
Bluray and DVD drives
X3 1600 powersupply

Thats pretty much it. Not too shabby for a $2,500 build. Its in an xBlade case if anyone knows what that is. I'm also working on watercooling it. SLI gets a bit too hot for my taste.

 

@shbek1
whoah on your desktop... what the heck do you use that for? and for 2.5K american? nice, envy.....
do you own it already or just plans to build?

 

why is it when you buy a processor, Intel always is the best one the clerks tells you to buy? what the heck is the difference between a dual core and core 2 duo?