Ok I'm planning on getting a new computer and are confused about the different processors available for PCs. For starters, what is best Intel or AMD. And secondly, the laptop I'm thinking of has one thing which is putting me off is it has AMD Athlonâ„¢ Neo X2 (1.6 GHz). Can someone explain to me The GHz. Thanks
Well, that is the speed of which the processor runs, and how fast your PC will run. Please include more information because having just the processor isn't enough info. Google "GHZ" and "Processor speed"
If you wanna put an processor, you must know if your Mother Board can handle it. Put your PC's spec here. To do it do the following: Windows XP: click on START, then RUN and type: dxdiag Windows Vista and Seven: go on START and type in the little search box on botton: dxdiag Now a window will appear, click to save it as .txt file. Copy and pasta the content here, but hey, due that it's lotsa information, put it between the spoiler tag: Code: [spoiler]pasta it here[/spoiler] Then we will be able to tell on which you can change. And tell us on the purpose of the upgrade. Are you aiming to build a PC gamer? Or a standard user's PC? Y"know, just to go on internet an such. If you gonna get a PC to play those last heavy games, I suggest you to not buy those pre-mounted PCs, due that they're not powerful to play games. But if it's to just go on messenger, internet and such, no need a powerful machine.
he doesn't want a new processor, he wants an entirely new computer. Self build is the way to go, you can get a much better computer for less than a prebuilt. I personally only use AMD processors, they are cheaper and use less electricity than intels (and inherently produce less heat), however at this point in time I believe the i7 series outperforms AMD processors. Should you decide to get an i7, I would advise against getting the most powerful one, as it is disproportionately expensive for its performance. IIRC the i7 960 (several models below the top) is the best price-performance tradeoff. Don't buy an AMD x2 or x3 with the intention of unlocking the extra core(s), they're disabled because those cores are bad. CPU cooler: Stock (provided with CPU) coolers are bad, especially intel ones. Take a look here: http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2521&page=4 for AMD or the next page for intel and pick a cooler that suits you. bear in mind that some coolers are easier to fit than others. For thermal paste I'd recommend arctic silver 5. Obviously your choice of motherboard depends on your processor selection, but I generally tend to buy certain brands. Asus have traditionally been good, gigabyte, asrock, msi. Patton recommends biostar but I've never tried them. DFI are good overclocker/gamer boards, but are expensive and tend to be fussy about ram. Avoid ECS, PC-Chips, evga, zotac and foxconn, also avoid anything with a VIA chipset. ATX boards are easier to work with than micro (u) atx RAM again mostly depends on your motherboard, but also on your processor. For example, my motherboard supports DDR3-10666, while my processor only supports DDR3-1066. Make sure what you get is supported by both. higher speed is generally better, and where you have a choice of ram combinations (eg you want 4GB, you can have 4x 1GB or 2x2GB), more sticks is faster overall. Bear in mind the number of channels, if the board/processor are dual channel then the memory works better in identical pairs, if its triple channel the memory works best in multiples of three (identical of course). Also consider your OS. If you are using a 32bit OS, then the computer will not be able to address more than 4GB of RAM, including what is on the graphics card. The exception to this is windows 2003 enterprise server. If you want more than 4GB of RAM you will need a 64 bit OS, which means windows 2003 64bit (or enterprise server 32 bit), windows vista 64 bit or windows 7 64 bit. Windows XP 64 bit is not supported well enough to be a usable OS. Bear in mind that 64bit can have compatibility issues, especially with older software. AVOID unknown brands, stick with Geil, Gskill or Mushkin for performance RAM, or samsung for common ram graphics card. This will affect your choice of case and power supply. While ATi cards are cheaper than nvidia, their drivers are absolutely awful and are forever crashing, so you may consider it worth the extra cost of a nvidia. I only have experience with nvidia in recent years, so I'll focus on them. High end nvidia cards are physically too big to fit in standard mid tower cases where the hard disk racks extend the full height of the case. (i found this out the hard way), so you are better off getting a full tower case. These are also easier to work in. BFG and XFX are good brands for graphics cards, avoid sparkle (because they do, right before they start chucking out smoke), zotac, evga. Make sure the PSU is up to the job. Power supply. Don't skimp here. If this blows it could damage the rest of your system, good reliable brand is key, chose from: antec, thermaltake, corsair, silverstone, OCZ, coolermaster, enermax or seasonic. You want at least 750W, and a decent +12V amperage. Personally I prefer fewer, bigger +12V rails, as opposed to more, smaller ones. (my current PSU is a corsair 850W, it has a single 75A +12V rail). Bear in mind that a high end graphics card can require 40A on the +12V rail, make sure your PSU can supply this (and more as graphics isnt the only thing on +12V), The problem with multiple rails is you have to spilt the load between the rails. Avoid cheap PSUs and stick with the brands I listed, its not uncommon for the PSU to be one of the most expensive components in the system. I generally pay about £100-150 for a PSU. Case: matter of preference here, though you want something thats big enough for the board, and with good airflow. Full towers are easier to work in, but take more space and are heavier. Mini towers will only take microATX motherboards. Mid tower is the most common in use. Avoid desktop (horizontal) and small form factor cases. Going with a well known brand such as coolermaster, thermaltake, antec, lan-li etc means you're less likely to rip your hands/fingers open while working in the case. hard disks: 1TB is the price/capacity sweet spot, and for brand get either Samsung, western digital or Hitachi. larger cache is better, and you want 7200RPM drives. Avoid the 'green' or 'ecogreen' drives, these run slower because they're supposedly better for the environment due to using less power, but the actual power savings are negigible. Interface wise you want SATAII (also known as SATA 3gb/s). Sound card: Most people are OK with onboard sound, but if you aren't, then I highly reccomend an Asus Xonar sound card. (not compatible with windows 2003 enterprise server 32 bit and more than 4GB of ram, either is OK, both will cause the xonar driver to bsod). Avoid creative sound cards (their pre-X-fi cards are good, the x-fis are terrible). EDITED: frostytech moved their cooler rankings again.
Also avoid Asus's M-boards, their drivers aren't the latest on. Biostar is the way to go if you wanna put more than one VGA, buy a VGA with the technology PC-I express 2.0 and don't go on the Nvidia's models like the 9800 series, they uses 9200's technology and are too much hot in heat. Buy one supperior or equal the GTX 260 SP 216. Don't use Windows Vista, it's a fail, due that it uses too much memory and processment, go on Seven, the ultimate version. As for processors, I'd like to go on Intel Core Quad Q9550 2.83 Ghz (4 CPUs). As for cooler, use Water cooler, it get it more cooler than the termal pasta. Also You'll need a better Voltage Source, I got here one called Satellite EPS8600 SL 650 Watts. Memory you choose the DDR3 or DDR2, the 3 is better. Kingston's ram is good.
umm thats true of any manufacturer? you get the drivers from the companies that produce the components, not the company that assembled the board. Asus produce very reliable hardware, which is all that matters. ALL manufacturers produce SLi/XFire capable boards, and just because the 9800 uses the same chip as the 9200 does not make it the same card or a bad card. I still have 8800GTX cards that I use and they're perfectly capable and much cheaper than the 200 series. nothing wrong with cards below the GTX 260. the core series are ancient, they've been superceeded by the i series. Water coolers are not for people who don't know what they are doing, and they still need thermal paste. Get the right aircooler and it can be just as effective as a bad watercooler. no-name PSU. AVOID. also its a lower rating than the ones I mentioned. You don't choose. It depends on your motherboard and processor as I said above. I've had a lot of bad kingston ram lately and having found out that they dont make their own microsd cards (they rebrand sandisk b-grade cast offs). I'm not sure if they make their own ram either.